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The eight-block arcade at the centre of Osaka's Minami changes character every few hours. When to walk it, where to step off it, and what your money actually buys.

The tower is a short climb with a long view over your own dinner, and here is how to ride it, when to go, and how to eat the lanes below it without queueing twice.

How to take Osaka's loudest quarter at the group size each place is actually built for: the canal, the backstreet bars, the market mornings.

A stone lane behind Dotonbori that takes ten minutes to walk, sixty kitchens along it, and a statue buried in moss that you wet with a ladle of water. How to walk Hozenji Yokocho properly, and what to eat while you are there.

How to do Osaka's loudest four hundred metres properly in a small group: the boat, the wheel, the takoyaki counters, and the quiet alley ninety seconds off the neon.
























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